"What if my cat won't want to use the shelves?" - it's one of the most common questions I hear from customers. In more than 14 years of breeding pedigree cats, I've watched hundreds of cats meet new shelves for the first time. Some jump up within minutes. Others need a few days. Some spend two weeks pretending the shelves don't exist - then suddenly start using them every day.
You can't force a cat to use shelves. What you can do is create conditions where it wants to use them on its own.
If your cat sleeps on a wardrobe, windowsill or fridge, that means it's naturally looking for a lookout point up high. It's behaviour inherited from wild ancestors - higher positions give a better view of the surroundings and a sense of safety.
Wall shelves don't teach a cat new behaviour. They give it a safer, sturdier, more comfortable place to do what it's already doing every day - except on a wardrobe or fridge, it does it without an owner's oversight and without any certainty the surface will hold under a jump.
The biggest mistake is picking a cat up and placing it on a shelf. A cat placed on an unfamiliar surface associates it with being forced, not with its own choice. In my own cattery, I never place cats on new pieces of equipment. Every cat decides for itself when it's ready.
Cats approach new things in stages: first they watch from a distance, then sniff it from floor level, then touch it with a paw - and only then decide to jump. That process can take anywhere from a few hours to two weeks. Every cat has its own pace, and that's completely normal.
When designing new products, I always think about how a cat will move across them. The gaps between shelves can't be random - they need to match what a cat can actually do.
Rules I follow when designing:
The first shelf should sit at a height a cat can reach without effort - from the back of a sofa, the top of a dresser, or a low scratcher, say. A jump from the floor straight to a shelf 120 cm up is a barrier that will put off a less confident cat.
Every shelf should offer a way onward, or a way back. A cat that jumps onto a shelf and can't see how to get down will feel trapped. In my own cattery, I notice cats are far more willing to use routes that give them a choice - they can carry on, or turn back.
The gaps between shelves should match a cat's size and agility. When designing, I factor in differences between breeds, ages and natural ways of moving. That's why PRASKA sets come with the spacing already worked out.
A cat notices instantly if a shelf flexes, wobbles or makes a sound during a jump. In most cases, it will simply stop using it - and won't come back.
That's why, when designing PRASKA products, I focus above all on construction and everyday stability, not just looks. A shelf that looks great in a photo but shakes when a 6 kg cat lands on it isn't doing its job.
A smooth, slippery surface is another barrier. A cat whose paws slip on landing loses its sense of control. That's why I use felt on PRASKA shelves and platforms - it gives paws good grip and eliminates slipping.
In my own cattery, I notice cats feel more confident on felt shelves from their very first contact. Felt does several jobs at once: it gives grip, works as a natural surface for horizontal scratching, and makes a comfortable spot to rest. One spot, several functions.
In a home with several cats, wall shelves serve an extra function - they let cats split their routes and avoid direct confrontation. A cat that feels threatened by a dominant housemate can pass over the top rather than confronting it on the floor.
From what I've observed in my own cattery, the highest shelf usually goes to the cat with the highest status in the group. The other cats settle onto lower levels. It's a natural hierarchy that doesn't need managing - just enough spots at different heights.
In a multi-cat home, it's worth planning routes so that no shelf is a dead end. A cat with no way to escape will avoid a shelf - even a stable, comfortable one.
If after two to three weeks a cat shows no interest in the shelves, it's worth checking three things: how solidly they're mounted (does a shelf shake when touched), whether the route is accessible (does the cat have a comfortable way onto the first shelf), and location (are the shelves in a zone the cat actually spends time in day to day).
Moving a bowl of treats onto the nearest shelf can encourage first contact. But that's a one-off nudge, not a method for long-term use. A cat only comes back to a shelf every day if the shelf actually meets its needs: stable, comfortable and well positioned.
It's also worth reading how routine affects a cat's acceptance of new things - the process of getting used to shelves is part of the same mechanism.
The best approach is to let it discover the new space by itself. It's not worth placing a cat on shelves or forcing it to use them. Curiosity usually works far better than force.
That's completely normal. Every cat needs a different amount of time to accept a new element in its environment. Some cats jump up right away, others only after a few days or even weeks.
Most cats naturally choose spots set higher up. It lets them watch their surroundings, rest, and feel more in control of their space.
Shelves should form a comfortable route matched to the cat's age, size and agility. It's important that the animal can move onto, rest on, and safely get down from the whole structure.
If you want to give your cat a space built around its natural needs, explore the PRASKA wall shelf, bridge and set collection.
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